After ~5 years of reliable service from our GE Adora front loading washer, the first repair it needed was to replace the torn door gasket. Upon finding a pool of water under the washer, I was rather miffed that the material would fail so catastrophically. However, upon opening the bottom panel, I found the remnants of a Parker pen sitting underneath the washer drum — it probably found its way into the door seal during the spin cycle and ripped a huge hole after being wedged into it.
Some searching around revealed it was a fairly expensive repair to have done, but the gasket could be acquired for under $100. The GE part number for my washer was WH08X10036 and I got it shipped from Amazon for $92.
You’ll need the following tools to do the job:
- #2 Phillips and straight-slot screw drivers
- 7 mm nut driver or socket (optional)
- 13 mm wrench (socket, ideally)
- A fresh supply of patience
The replacement wasn’t all that hard and took me 2 hours start to finish, including taking all of the pictures! A motivated, mechanically inclined person could probably finish in under an hour. The most difficult aspect of the job is being able to stretch the new seal over the wash drum.
Unplug the washer from the wall socket. This is more than just a safety precaution since we’ll be disconnecting the wiring to the control panel.
Remove the lower front panel (not pictured). There are 3 screws clearly visible from the front on the bottom.
Behind the control panel, remove the three screws holding the molding onto the rear of the control panel. There are two snaps that require it to be gingerly lifted off to avoid breaking them.
Remove the three screws holding faceplate molding.
Nikon D200, ISO 400, ƒ/2.8, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.
Remove the screws on the top, rear of the machine that hold the top cover on.
Remove the three screws on the rear holding the top cover on.
Nikon D200, ISO 400, ƒ/2.8, 1/250sec, 31mm focal L.
With the screws off, slide the top cover back about 1-2 inches, and it will easily lift of.
Slide the top-cover back and then lift it off.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.
Depress the tab to remove the soap tray. Probably a good time to clean out all the soap scum build up while you have it out.
Remove the soap tray.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/40sec, 24mm focal L.
Remove the screw hiding behind the soap tray.
Remove the screw behind the soap tray.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/45sec, 24mm focal L.
Remove the four screws holding the control panel.
Remove the four screws holding the control panel on.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/4.5, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.
Now the control panel can be removed. Note that there are a couple of tabs that would benefit from not being forced off.
With all 5 control panel screws removed, lift the tabs to remove the panel.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/250sec, 34mm focal L.
Carefully disconnect all of the connector harnesses and take note of where the connections go. It is quite likely yours will not look exactly like mine does. Also, be careful not to touch the electronic components as they are static sensitive.
Alternately, you could get creative and loosely tie the control panel up so that you can get behind it without stressing the wires.
Note the correct placement of all the connectors.
Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/90sec, 24mm focal L.
Remove the door latch screws.
Remove the three screws holding the door latch.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 35mm focal L.
Open the door and hook a screw driver under the wire retaining ring around the door seal. Pull this off being careful not to kink the wire.
Remove the wire ring holding gasket to the door panel.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 32mm focal L.
Prepare to remove the door panel by removing the gasket from the panel and pushing the door latch out of the way. There’s no need to disconnect the door latch wires.
Free the gasket and door latch from the door panel.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 32mm focal L.
Remove the four screws at the corners of the door panel.
Remove the door panel screws.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 24mm focal L.
With the screws removed, the door panel is still resting securely on the hooks shown below. Lift the panel off the hooks and set it aside, door and all. There is no need to remove the door from the panel.
Lift the door panel off the hooks.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/30sec, 24mm focal L.
Remove the lower concrete weight. A real pro wouldn’t bother with this step, but, I assure you it’s worth it to remove the lower concrete weight from the drum. It’ll save you much frustration when trying to install the new seal.
Remove the lower concrete weight.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 26mm focal L.
Finally, unscrew the wire band holding the gasket onto the drum and remove the gasket. Be very gentle with the soap tube attached to the gasket in the upper left. The soap tube is a fairly flimsy plastic, and could easily break if it is yanked on too hard.
Remove the wire ring holding the gasket onto the drum.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 26mm focal L.
The drain holes in the bottom of my wash drum were totally clogged with soap scum and lint. This is a good time to clean those up to minimize water puddling in the gasket. Also, make sure that the outer gasket ring of the drum is free of soap scum so the new gasket can seal around it.
Good time to clean things up.
Nikon D200, ISO 1250, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 38mm focal L.
It was interesting to note that the new gasket has an added feature to stop clothes from riding around the outer lip of the drum.
Note the new feature.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/15sec, 24mm focal L.
When putting the new gasket on, take note that it has alignment marks that should match up to the drum. The lower triangle on the drum will be inside of the gasket when it is installed. Use the notch at the top.
I don’t know of any good trick to install the gasket. It probably took me ~45 minutes of trial and error to get it stretched out and installed correctly. The winning technique that finally worked for me was:
- Do not insert the soap tube or door sprayer into the gasket until the end.
- Don’t bother with the wire band until the gasket is fully stretched over the washer drum. It only gets in the way and adds to the frustration.
- Avoid using any tools on the gasket (pliers or pry bars). It would be fairly easy to tear it.
- I started from the top and worked it down and around. If you are having trouble with it popping off the top once you start working toward the bottom, that probably means it wasn’t really seated at the top to begin with. There’s not a lot of room and no easy way to get pressure in the right spot to insure it’s seated.
- Pulling from the outside and pushing from the inside will get it to yield. An extra pair of hands would be very beneficial to keep it from popping off the other side, but, I managed it by myself.
Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/30sec, 27mm focal L.
The door sprayer is easiest to insert by pulling it off the tubing and then removing the retaining washer from the fitting. Push the nozzle through from the bottom of the gasket, taking note that it’s pointed at the door, and then the plastic washer goes onto the fitting, followed by the hose.
Update: To ease the removal of the nozzle from the hose, soak the sprayer and hose in very hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. The nozzle should come out by hand. Thank you to commenter Pamela for that clever suggestion.
Insert the door sprayer.
Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 40mm focal L.
When reinstalling the concrete weight, note that the bolts have a long flat edge that should be pushed into the slot.
Note the correct orientation of the weight bolts
Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/13sec, 40mm focal L.
The rest of the install procedure is the reverse of the disassembly.
I left the lower, front panel off for the first load to make sure it easy to check for leaks. None found!
Best of luck for those attempting to tackle the job!