GE Frontload Washer Door Gasket Replacement

After ~5 years of reliable service from our GE Adora front loading washer, the first repair it needed was to replace the torn door gasket. Upon finding a pool of water under the washer, I was rather miffed that the material would fail so catastrophically. However, upon opening the bottom panel, I found the remnants of a Parker pen sitting underneath the washer drum — it probably found its way into the door seal during the spin cycle and ripped a huge hole after being wedged into it.

Some searching around revealed it was a fairly expensive repair to have done, but the gasket could be acquired for under $100. The GE part number for my washer was WH08X10036 and I got it shipped from Amazon for $92.

You’ll need the following tools to do the job:

  • #2 Phillips and straight-slot screw drivers
  • 7 mm nut driver or socket (optional)
  • 13 mm wrench (socket, ideally)
  • A fresh supply of patience

The replacement wasn’t all that hard and took me 2 hours start to finish, including taking all of the pictures! A motivated, mechanically inclined person could probably finish in under an hour. The most difficult aspect of the job is being able to stretch the new seal over the wash drum.

(1)
Unplug the washer from the wall socket. This is more than just a safety precaution since we’ll be disconnecting the wiring to the control panel.

(2)
Remove the lower front panel (not pictured). There are 3 screws clearly visible from the front on the bottom.

(3)
Behind the control panel, remove the three screws holding the molding onto the rear of the control panel. There are two snaps that require it to be gingerly lifted off to avoid breaking them.

Remove the three screws holding faceplate molding.

Nikon D200, ISO 400, ƒ/2.8, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.

(4)
Remove the screws on the top, rear of the machine that hold the top cover on.

Remove the three screws on the rear holding the top cover on.

Nikon D200, ISO 400, ƒ/2.8, 1/250sec, 31mm focal L.

(5)
With the screws off, slide the top cover back about 1-2 inches, and it will easily lift of.

Slide the top-cover back and then lift it off.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.

(6)
Depress the tab to remove the soap tray. Probably a good time to clean out all the soap scum build up while you have it out.

Remove the soap tray.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/40sec, 24mm focal L.

(7)
Remove the screw hiding behind the soap tray.

Remove the screw behind the soap tray.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/45sec, 24mm focal L.

(8)
Remove the four screws holding the control panel.

Remove the four screws holding the control panel on.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/4.5, 1/125sec, 24mm focal L.

(9)
Now the control panel can be removed. Note that there are a couple of tabs that would benefit from not being forced off.

With all 5 control panel screws removed, lift the tabs to remove the panel.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/250sec, 34mm focal L.

(10)
Carefully disconnect all of the connector harnesses and take note of where the connections go. It is quite likely yours will not look exactly like mine does. Also, be careful not to touch the electronic components as they are static sensitive.

Alternately, you could get creative and loosely tie the control panel up so that you can get behind it without stressing the wires.

Note the correct placement of all the connectors.

Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/90sec, 24mm focal L.

(11)
Remove the door latch screws.

Remove the three screws holding the door latch.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 35mm focal L.

(12)
Open the door and hook a screw driver under the wire retaining ring around the door seal. Pull this off being careful not to kink the wire.

Remove the wire ring holding gasket to the door panel.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 32mm focal L.

(13)
Prepare to remove the door panel by removing the gasket from the panel and pushing the door latch out of the way. There’s no need to disconnect the door latch wires.

Free the gasket and door latch from the door panel.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 32mm focal L.

(14)
Remove the four screws at the corners of the door panel.

Remove the door panel screws.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 24mm focal L.

(15)
With the screws removed, the door panel is still resting securely on the hooks shown below. Lift the panel off the hooks and set it aside, door and all. There is no need to remove the door from the panel.

Lift the door panel off the hooks.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/30sec, 24mm focal L.

(16)
Remove the lower concrete weight. A real pro wouldn’t bother with this step, but, I assure you it’s worth it to remove the lower concrete weight from the drum. It’ll save you much frustration when trying to install the new seal.

Remove the lower concrete weight.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 26mm focal L.

(17)
Finally, unscrew the wire band holding the gasket onto the drum and remove the gasket. Be very gentle with the soap tube attached to the gasket in the upper left. The soap tube is a fairly flimsy plastic, and could easily break if it is yanked on too hard.

Remove the wire ring holding the gasket onto the drum.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 26mm focal L.

(18)
The drain holes in the bottom of my wash drum were totally clogged with soap scum and lint. This is a good time to clean those up to minimize water puddling in the gasket. Also, make sure that the outer gasket ring of the drum is free of soap scum so the new gasket can seal around it.

Good time to clean things up.

Nikon D200, ISO 1250, ƒ/2.8, 1/20sec, 38mm focal L.

 

It was interesting to note that the new gasket has an added feature to stop clothes from riding around the outer lip of the drum.

Note the new feature.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/15sec, 24mm focal L.

(19)
When putting the new gasket on, take note that it has alignment marks that should match up to the drum. The lower triangle on the drum will be inside of the gasket when it is installed. Use the notch at the top.

I don’t know of any good trick to install the gasket. It probably took me ~45 minutes of trial and error to get it stretched out and installed correctly. The winning technique that finally worked for me was:

  • Do not insert the soap tube or door sprayer into the gasket until the end.
  • Don’t bother with the wire band until the gasket is fully stretched over the washer drum. It only gets in the way and adds to the frustration.
  • Avoid using any tools on the gasket (pliers or pry bars). It would be fairly easy to tear it.
  • I started from the top and worked it down and around. If you are having trouble with it popping off the top once you start working toward the bottom, that probably means it wasn’t really seated at the top to begin with. There’s not a lot of room and no easy way to get pressure in the right spot to insure it’s seated.
  • Pulling from the outside and pushing from the inside will get it to yield. An extra pair of hands would be very beneficial to keep it from popping off the other side, but, I managed it by myself.

Alignment marks.

Nikon D200, ISO 800, ƒ/2.8, 1/30sec, 27mm focal L.

(20)
The door sprayer is easiest to insert by pulling it off the tubing and then removing the retaining washer from the fitting. Push the nozzle through from the bottom of the gasket, taking note that it’s pointed at the door, and then the plastic washer goes onto the fitting, followed by the hose.

Update:  To ease the removal of the nozzle from the hose, soak the sprayer and hose in very hot water for a few minutes to soften the rubber. The nozzle should come out by hand.  Thank you to commenter Pamela for that clever suggestion.

Insert the door sprayer.

Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/10sec, 40mm focal L.

(21)
When reinstalling the concrete weight, note that the bolts have a long flat edge that should be pushed into the slot.

Note the correct orientation of the weight bolts

Nikon D200, ISO 1600, ƒ/2.8, 1/13sec, 40mm focal L.

The rest of the install procedure is the reverse of the disassembly.

I left the lower, front panel off for the first load to make sure it easy to check for leaks. None found!

Best of luck for those attempting to tackle the job!

71 comments to GE Frontload Washer Door Gasket Replacement

  • Liz

    These directions and pictures are EXACTLY what I’ve been looking for! Thank you, thank you, thank you! My husband is very mechanically inclined so I think I will let him tackle the replacement, but I think I COULD do it thanks to your tips. Really, the only thing that would bother me is the whole messing with electrical components (I don’t do electricity!).

    We had the same issue–pen versus rubber gasket=bad result! :)

    Thanks for taking the time to post pictures and great hints to make the job easier!

  • Thanks so much – I had to do the same repair and your pics and description were spot on.

  • Paul

    Everything went smoothly, but now washer vibrates like crazy and tub makes a grinding noise as it rotates. Any suggestions.. We checked and double checked the gasket and balance weights.

  • Ulli

    Excellent description. I tried it first without taking the door panel off…like the repair technician did the last three times this freakin’ seal broke. Wasn’t happening. It’s worthwhile removing the screws, panels, and connectors to be 100% sure you get the seal on correctly.
    Thanks,
    Ulli

  • thomas wolsey

    Just wanted to say thanks for the pic’s on how to replace the gasket. u saved me, I don’t know how much money. From getting some professional to do it.

    Thanks again,
    Thomas

  • laura & david

    Thank you so very much. I was able to troubleshoot and repair our GE washer with ease thanks to your wonderful directions. This is a great community service and resource that you have provided. Thank you again.

  • Dex Dutson

    You, my man, are a steely-eyed repairman! With this description, I had the darned thing dismantled in no time. Turns out I didn’t have a leaky gasket at all. The stupid soap filler tube had a crack in it. On a whim, I tried hot melt glue to fix the crack. After letting it dry over night, the glue had actually melted into the plastic and made a seal as good as the tube itself!

    One word of caution….the inside lip of the door is awfully sharp. I have two cut fingers as evidence…..

  • Mike

    Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Very helpful. I replaced mine today after seeing water under the washer. But when I took the gasket off it was still in good shape. No tears/rips. But I did notice the hose that ran down from soap dispenser was not fully inserted into the hole down at the drum. Running a load now to see if everything holds tight.

  • Sydney

    Thank you! Just finished. Probably would not have even attempted the job without your help.

  • Sherry

    I just finished replacing the gasket exactly as you instructed on this site. My washer running a cycle but no water is running into the machine. Does it need to reset itself because we unplugged the electric wiring (replacing it exactly as you stated)? Please help? What could be wrong? Thanks for an answer.

  • CHRIS

    Man you are the bomb. You have really made my day!!! God bless you and your family!!!!

    GE Consumer line was very helpful.However, the company which they selected to do the repairs in my area SUCKS. My service call was canceled and rescheduled four times with no help on resolving my problem.

    So, with your help I was able to solved my problem on my own and save some money$$$$$.

    Thank you my brother !!!!

  • Mario

    I replaced the gasket and the first time I let the machine run it leaked very little. I went back to make sure all the screws were in correctly and if the gasket was installed properly. After the second test it leaked even more. Why would this be?? Any ideas???

  • Jean

    Thanks, I took this apart all on my own. My husband got home and put the gasket on, the hardest part. Then I walked him backward through the instuctions and my laundry is now washing without water running out the front. There was a mysterious torn off piece right in the front. No idea how that happened. I sure don’t want to repair the washer again, or do that for a job, but it felt good to be able to do it without hiring someone.

  • Sam

    Man, Thank you so much, saved me from buying new one.

  • James

    Did you ever get an answer? Same problem. Thanks.

  • Bill

    These directions with pictures were dead on! It went exactly as described in the steps. The gasket itself was a little bit of a pain to sit in properly but once in, the rest went great thanks to your help. Could not have done it without your great directions and diagrams. Thanks again!

  • Ken

    Thanks! I just ordered it and I look forward to the installation.

  • Bill

    For those of you who had a leak after installation. I would check larger plastic water inlet that is pushed into the gasket. It just pushes on over a gasket on the other end where it attaches to the detergent holder. If disturbed too much while puting into new door gasket you may break the seal. To fix, take apart washer front as described but DON’T REMOVE INNER PART OF GASKET. Check to make sure that the plastic arm is attached properly over gasket where it attaches to the detergent holder. I did have a small leak after and this was the problem. Hope this may help!

  • Adrian

    I have changed my gasket but the drum won’t spin now. It is either because the gasket is new or need some sort of lubricant between the drum outer lip and the rubber gasket. I replaced it again and tried some cooking oil. This time the drum was able to spin but not for very long time. It got tight again. Anyone had this issue or know what lubricant I can use that will last longer?

  • Rich

    These directions and photos were excellent! This walked me through the repair and the directions were perfect. I looked at another site that did not instruct you to remove the concrete balance weight, that right there probably saved me a good bit of frustration and saved my fingers!!

  • Chris

    Thank you so much for the instructions – probably saved a couple hundred bucks! And, given that I had detailed instructions to follow, my wife had confidence that the job could be done without bringing in a professional handyman. Job done in under 90 minutes… So far, so good, no concerns after 6 loads of laundry.

  • saravanan babu

    Hi,

    thanks for the post. in step 20, i could not remove the sprayer from the tube, how do you take it out and how do you put it back in, its really tight.

    thanks in advance,
    saravanan.

  • steve

    have same problem put gasket in machine goes on but no water coming in help please

  • `Ken

    very load noises while in spin cycle, I dismantled the front gasket lock rings (front and rear) I noticed the tub was actually rubbing against the tub housing, this must be caused by a mounting bracket or something from the back breaking loose, The question is should I pay to have the tub replaced or just replace the piece of junk? please advice

  • Beth

    Steve,
    I have the same problem. How did you fix it?

  • Repair went smoothly. Instructions were right on the gnat’s wing. Took about 20 minutes to get the boot seated. Saved a bundle. Thanks.

  • Jason

    Just a note. When I replaced mine, I took the upper counter weight off made putting the gasket on the topside alot easier.

  • Brenda

    Thanks so much for the accurate description. I would love to say it was easy but the important thing is that I completed the job. Hopefully this one will last longer than 1.5 yrs.

  • pamela

    To remove the sprayer from the tube, soak it in cup of very hot water. This will soften the tube and the sprayer should be easy to pry out with your hands. This was such a great tutorial, thanks so much!

  • ppburns

    I want to add my thanks to the list. I followed the instructions and am happy to report we are back to doing laundry again. It was a bit of work, but nothing too hard to do with some basic tools.

  • Dan

    Thanks so much for the instructions. I am a pretty good mechanic, and can usually figure out repairs simply by inspection, yet I doubt I would have gotten very far in this job on my own. You described the procedure with all the essential details.

    Can’t say I am too impressed with the GE design team after going through this procedure. I am not looking forward to doing this again.

    Thanks again –

  • JohnL

    Thank you for the well detailed instructions. GE should direct
    Customers to this Site for detailed instructions.

  • Erin

    This tutorial was so spot on! Thanks to you I saved having to pay someone to repair my washer. These instructions were so good even my engineer husband was impressed. Thank you so much for the instructions and the wonderful pictures, they really made this a simple repair.

  • Erin M

    Thank you so much for sharing! I was mortified at the thought of how much this was going to cost me to have someone from GE replace it…..so I did what you said and bought the part from Amazon and did it myself! Your instructions were a life saver, as well as the pictures, couldn’t have done it without them! Because you made this available, you have saved us hundreds of dollars I’m sure. Thanks again!!

  • Dee

    I am having same problem as Sherry and Jay. Replaced seal and put it all back together but no water is coming into washer….and the water faucet is open. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great pics and instructions by the way!

    • I assume that the washer drum spins normally, the door-lock mechanism makes the loud “clank” at the start-up, and all that?

      Baring the obvious (the water valves are turned on :) ), the only thing that comes to mind is a missing electrical connection to the control modules.

      I’d unplug the washer and trace the solenoid wires back to the control panel and double and triple check everything. Perhaps a wire pulled out from inside the multi-pin connector.

      Wost case scenario, something is fried on the control board, but, that’s not very likely.

      UPDATE: Steve replied back stating it was a loose connector that wasn’t pushed in all the way in his case.

  • Dee

    Having the same issue as Sherry, James and Steve…..installed seal (great tutorial) but now there is no water coming out into washer! Can anyone help?

  • steve

    New gasket, no water: pulled top cover off and one of the push-on wire plugs was not pushed on all the way.

  • Ian

    Brother!

    Thanks so much for the thorough, detailed instructions!
    Replacing the door gasket was a breeze….relatively speaking.
    Saved me $$$ on a service call!

    sincerely,

    ian

  • Clay

    Great instructions. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Easy to follow. Very accurate. Great job!!!

  • Joe Mazz

    Thanks for taking the time to do this for us home mechanics. It was just as you explained and was very helpful!!
    Wife is very happy we saved money once again. Changed bellows/rubber/gasket and door latch assemble.
    Happy Flying from one Eagle to another.

  • Kelly

    We did it in less than an hour. The instructions and tips definately helped! Thanks!!!

  • Mike R

    Hello,
    I just wanted to THANK YOU for these instructions!! These instructions are bang on for what needs to be done, including installing the gasket on the drum (took about 30 minutes to do it with trial and error). I also used a YouTube video for reference.
    My gasket was moldy, probably from fabric softener, so it was time to do this. I also ordered the gasket from amazon.com, but since I am in Canada that same gasket runs for about $130+tax up here, so for Canadians that order from amazon.com is well worth it (about $85 USD).
    BTW, I am using AFFRESH to help keep the mold and mildew smell down and it seems to be working.

    Cheers!

  • Rich

    This all sounds great, going to attempt this. My difference is , never had a water problem. Wife told me machine was smoking a bit and when I opened up the door I noticed a piece of gasket sticking out . Looked like a piece of wiper blade protruding. It was part of the gasket, tore it off and did 3 more loads , still no leak but smoked after third load. Now I can see thru the gasket into bottom of machine , so not using til I replace. Question, Is it just me or does it appear that the drum spins free of the gasket, maybe I have another model…[ GE WCVH626OHWW ] and the gasket mounts to the housing of machine. When I spin drum by hand, the gasket does not move. Looks like it is diff than what you had.

  • Keith

    Thank you for the well written instructions and pictures. I tackled the job today and the washer is back together and running like a champ!

  • bill

    I replaced the door seal 4 moths ago before seeing this site, did it without taking off all the weights and stuff, now the seal is destroyed, the drum seems to have been cutting through the inside seal, making a knocking sound on spin cycle and has now cut through and is leaking again. and if I turn the drum it turns irregular not in a nice circle. should the seal help it run true or look for why the drum is untrue before replacing the seal again. thanks.

    • The drum is supported entirely at the rear of the machine. If it’s rubbing on the seal, there’s another problem that needs to be addressed.

      • bill

        yep your right. the Y brace was cracked in half. 2 years old GE machine already replaced 1 door seal now needs another and a Y brace, I’m thinking a new one might be cheaper than keep replacing it. thanks for the info.

  • Rick Askvig

    These pics and directions were spot on! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I probably saved at least $200 to $300 on the labor alone and I was able to find the part on Amazon. Altogether with my wife’s Amazon gift card and shipping it cost us around $40! No leaks and no more laundramat!

  • SteveRC

    Thanks for compiling this info. My washer is back together and performing A1 – no leaks!
    Good to hear some folks were able to save some money by purchasing their replacement gasket on Amazon.com. I purchased mine at the local parts supplier for $145.95CDN.

  • J C

    Thanks for the great instructions. I completed mine with no problems in about 45 minutes. I took the extra minute to remove the drain lint filter and clean it out as well. Got the part from Amazon for $80. A lot cheaper that the quote from the appliance guy!

  • Ralph Carey

    So, is it safe to say that the gasket usually needs replacing at some point in the machines life? I’ve been using a unit like this for over 4years with no problems. Suddenly, it began to leak.. yup torn gasket. My landlord is charging my the cost of the repair ($ 380.00 ) saying that this repair is only from misuse. After 4+ years with no problems, doesnt it seem strange to make such a claim?

    • I’m not going to opine about who’s right in your particular situation. I can offer this data point: my gasket was going strong for 4 years and 8 months of daily usage laundering diapers for 3 babies. The gasket was damaged when a ball point pen made it into the machine. The material had no other sign of wear as was still pliable. I’m 100% certain it was the pen that did the damage because I found broken pen tube trapped outside of the drum after removing the lower access panel.

  • Mary Ann

    Just want to say thanks for the information with pictures. I was able to replace the bellow (purchased on Amazon) and get my machine working. I did have a problem with the P3 plug on the control panel not wanting to seat properly. This probably took more time that getting the gasket to stay on. I am a single mom so it was worth the frustration and time for me to do this repair myself. I am now happily laundering my clothes again!

  • Danielle

    Thank you very much much for this John. I realize the article is old, but we had to replace the gasket and it was either doing it ourselves or overpaying a specialist to do it. Thanks to this guide my husband was able to do the whole procedure himself, saving us some money and providing us with quite a bit of fun too (it’s always fun to take a closer look at “what’s cooking” inside of the appliances we use daily).

    Again, thank you!

  • Sally

    i have black stains in the inside of the bottom of the gasket near the drain holes. I have cleaned these as much as possible. Is it possible that these stains are leaving black marks on my clothes or is there something else?

  • Ray

    Awesome. Exactly what I needed. TYVM

  • Larry

    Hi, John–
    If you had a gasket with merely a slit (1″-2″) in it, do you think it could be repaired rather than replaced? Maybe even with something as simple as duct tape above and below the slit? (Mine is a Maytag stack front loader–but same general idea, I think.)
    Thanks for the help!

  • Jim

    Great instructions. Thank you for putting this together! Easy to follow. Very accurate.

    After spending way too long trying to figure out a good way to hold the control panel up … it was easiest to just remove the wires. Mine looked exactly like yours, and I found they will only go in one spot. Great job!!! Thanks again.

  • Jim

    I fixed mine temporarily with a bicycle tire patch. That lasted long enough for me to find a replacement part, order it with the lowest cost shipping, and wait for a good time to fit the repair into our busy schedule.

  • Bill

    Thanks for taking the time to publish this. I just finished replacing the gasket and followed the direction for dismantling the machine and they were perfect. Like someone else mentioned, I took off the upper weight also after struggling to get the gasket over the lip. MDe the job MUCH easier. Also found it a not of a pain to get the front spring loaded ring back on but after a few tries I got it on. Washer is now running perfect with no leaks. Thanks so much!

  • G1

    Your post saved me a lot of time. Your instructions were spot on. Can’t thank you enough !

  • eric

    I replaced the gasket today and once done i plugged it in and it now will not turn on at all. I check the plug in and it works. What do you think??

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