SOLD — Chrysler water-pump project parts for sale

Update: Parts are sold — thank you Chris!

The following are brand new parts that are left over (didn’t need) from when I wrote the “How-to” change the water pump in a 2.7L.

I purchased these at over 1/3 off list price in Nov, 2006 and I’m going to pass along those savings to someone here, as I see the prices have only gotten more expensive since then :)

Part # — Description — My Cost

4663635 Timing chain $97.85
4663636 Long chain guide $16.06
4663637 Short left guide $10.29
4792104 Short right guide $11.99
4663634-AB Tensioner arm guide $21.01
Tax @8.25 $11.98
Total $157.19

So, I’m going to sell the entire package for $150 including shipping costs within the US. I did some quick checks at online discount parts houses and these prices indeed are better than all I checked, plus you’ll pay much more for shipping/handling from them!

If you are going to do the water pump in your 2.7L, you only need two additional parts: timing chain cover seal (#4792005-AB), and, of course the water pump.

Note — In checking online parts books, all parts are valid for 1998-2004 2.7L engines (and some parts are valid for later engines too), with the exception of the tensioner arm guide which is listed for 01-08 year model 2.7L engines. None listed a valid part number for 98-00 engines, so, I suspect that guide is packaged with the tensioner. Please double check these are the right parts for your engine. I assume no fault if these are not the correct part numbers for your application!!

The original receipt

1 comment to SOLD — Chrysler water-pump project parts for sale

  • Ron

    Hello, wanted to thank you for the article on the dodge 2.7 Your’s was the best resource I found anywhere when I replaced the entire timing chain system – water pump and oil pressure pump.
    1 Comment, I did not replace the main timing chain tensioner and just reset my old one as you did in your article. I see you also have updated this protion with a different approach. I wanted to add what happened to my tensioner as more food for thought.
    After replacing everything except the tensioner, the car ran fine for about 5,000 miles. I then had a few days when after the car had sat a long time, the primary chain would rattle for a few secounds when 1st started. Within a week it started to rattel badly non-stop and was parked. I removed the Primary Chain Tensioner – reset it again and re-installed it. Everything is fine once again.
    We’ll see what happens after it sits for a while. My theory is that this part eventualy wears out and the oil behind the ball check valve is allowed to leak past it thus letting pressure off the main tensioning arm. This little hydralic piston is not sealed, there is a hole at each end. The end without the checkvale which rides against the arm inside the engine allows any air to escape from the piston as the oil pressure is applied thus, baring the 2nd hole being plugged, you can not have a hydralic lock.
    For proper tensioning of the chain against varying speeds, the oil pressure is needed to reduce the shock to the parts that would occure if there were just a spring and no oil in the cylinder. When the internal gasket, bolt head o-ring or check ball is worn or defective, it allows the tensioner to “deflate” until the next engine start or it collaspes as mine did and then sticks in that position untill removed and reset. Could have also been due to dirt or something else clogging the workings of the checkball but I think it is a part that wears out as a shock on the axel would. Please feel free to edit content as you see fit. Thanks!

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